Imagine you’re standing in your local bike shop, staring at a sea of gravel bikes in every color imaginable, with an equally dizzying array of components and features. Paralyzed by indecision, you wonder how on earth you’ll pick the right gravel steed for your riding style and budget.
When I first decided to join the gravel revolution, I nearly threw my hands up in despair at the overwhelming number of choices. But after countless hours of research, many chats with savvy shop employees, and some trial and error, I finally found my perfect rig. Now I’m here to help you do the same with this ultimate guide to buying a gravel bike!
key takeaways
- Consider your riding style, terrain, and cargo needs when choosing a gravel bike
- Establish a realistic budget, but factor in additional costs beyond the bike itself
- Frame material affects weight, ride feel, durability and cost – carbon is light but pricey; steel is smooth but heavy
- 1x drivetrains are simple but have fewer gears; 2x offers more range but added complexity
- Wider tires (650b) provide comfort and traction; narrower tires (700c) maximize speed and efficiency
What Exactly is a Gravel Bike Anyway?
Before we dive into the nitty-gritty of frame materials, tire sizes, and gearing ratios, let’s define what we’re talking about. A gravel bike is essentially a drop-bar bike built to handle a variety of surfaces, from smooth pavement to chunky fire roads. Think of it as a lovechild between a road bike and a cyclocross bike, with some mountain bike DNA sprinkled in. Gravel bikes typically have:

- Relaxed, endurance-oriented geometry for stability and comfort
- Disc brakes for superior stopping power in all conditions
- Wider, knobby tires for traction on loose surfaces
- Mounts for racks, fenders, and multiple water bottles
- Wider range gearing to tackle hills and haul gear
While no two gravel bikes are exactly alike, they’re all designed with adventure and versatility in mind. Whether you want to tackle an epic bikepacking trip, race gravel events like Unbound, or just explore backcountry roads, a gravel bike is your ticket to freedom.
Key Factors to Consider When Buying a Gravel Bike
Riding Style and Intended Use
The first and most important thing to think about is how and where you plan to ride your gravel bike. Are you aiming to do mostly fast, unloaded rides on smoother gravel roads? Then you might prioritize a lighter weight bike with racier geometry. Planning to load up for multi-day adventures in remote places? Then features like mounts for racks and extra water bottles become more critical. Consider factors like:
- Terrain: Mostly maintained gravel, or rough singletrack?
- Distance: Quick day rides, or multi-day epics?
- Cargo: Minimalist, or full bikepacking setup?
- Pace: Racing, or smelling the roses?
Dialing in your riding style will help narrow the field considerably.
Budget
Of course, the other major consideration is how much you’re willing and able to spend. Gravel bike prices run the gamut from under $1,000 for entry-level aluminum and steel models, to well over $10,000 for super lightweight carbon dream machines. Establish your budget early on, but keep in mind you’ll also need to factor in additional costs like:
- Pedals
- Bottle cages
- Bags/racks
- Repair kit
- Riding clothing
Generally, spending more will get you lighter weight, higher performing components, and more advanced features. But that doesn’t mean you need to take out a second mortgage to get a great gravel bike. Aim to get the best spec you can afford, with an eye toward your priorities (e.g. lightweight vs. durability).
Frame Material
Gravel bikes come in four main frame materials: aluminum, carbon, steel, and titanium. Each has pros and cons in terms of ride feel, weight, durability and cost.
Material | Ride Quality | Weight | Durability | Cost |
---|---|---|---|---|
Aluminum | Stiff | Light | Durable | $ |
Carbon | Smooth | Lightest | Vulnerable to impact | $$$ |
Steel | Plush | Heavy | Tough | $$ |
Titanium | Smooth | Light | Bombproof | $$$$$ |
There’s no one “best” frame material – it depends on your priorities and budget. Carbon is lightest but priciest; steel is heavy but buttery smooth; aluminum is affordable but stiff; titanium is dreamy but spendy. Many great gravel bikes use a combination, like an aluminum frame with a carbon fork.
Drivetrain
Gravel bikes come with two main drivetrain options: 1x (single chainring) or 2x (double chainrings). 1x drivetrains ditch the front derailleur for simplicity and have a wide range cassette to provide plenty of gears. 2x gives you smaller steps between gears and a wider overall range, but with more complexity.
Either one works great, but consider:
- For racing and riding unloaded, 1x may be ideal for its simplicity and weight savings.
- For hauling heavy loads up steep climbs, the bailout gear of a 2x might be welcome.
- Electronic drivetrains offer ultra precise and reliable shifting, but mechanical is cheaper and easier to fix in the field.
Wheel and Tire Size
Gravel bikes come with two main wheel size options: 700c (same as most road bikes) and 650b (a.k.a 27.5″). 700c wheels accommodate tire widths up to about 45mm, while 650b wheels can fit monstrous tires up to 2.2″ wide. Frame design also factors in; some gravel bikes have more tire clearance than others.
Consider:
- For mostly smooth and fast riding, narrower tires (35-40mm) on 700c wheels maximize efficiency.
- For rugged terrain and comfort, high volume tires on 650b wheels provide cushion and traction.
- Tubeless tires prevent flats and allow lower pressures, but can be finicky to set up.
Many gravel bikes can accommodate both 700c and 650b wheels, so you can change them depending on the ride.
Final Thoughts
Choosing the right gravel bike ultimately comes down to assessing your individual riding style, goals and budget – and then finding the bike that ticks all the boxes. Don’t get too hung up on any one spec or feature. The most important thing is that the bike makes you excited to get out and explore the trails. And remember, even the most carefully researched bike might need some fine tuning once you get it out in the wild – so leave some room in your budget for tweaks and upgrades.